Week 9, Part II – Sept. 18 to Sept. 24, 2023 – Ludington, MI to Muskegon, MI
Highlights this week: a two-hour dinghy ride to see some dunes up close; a farmer’s market and fall festival; and, a road trip to the grocery store.
Monday – Tuesday – Sept. 18 to Sept. 19, 2023 – Ludginton, MI (Layover days)
We ended last week docked in Ludington Municipal Marina. We decided to extend our stay in Ludington an extra day and stay until Wednesday morning.
I thought it would be fun to take an Uber out to Ludington State Park and hike the Skyline Trail Dune Climb. Well…after 10 minutes of Uber saying “trying to find a driver,” we decided that was not an option. Also not an option was spending $80 to rent 2 bikes for 4 hours – plus having to bike 23 miles, round trip. So…we decided to take an adventure in our dinghy!
The 1-2 foot waves on Lake Michigan look much smaller on HOMES than they do in a dinghy! Tim enjoyed the ride immensely! I enjoyed standing on the beach the best! But joking aside, we had a fun trip. Our 13-foot dinghy, with its 30-horsepower motor, thought nothing of the waves.
Unfortunately, the Big Sable River was silted over at the mouth, so we couldn’t get back to the hiking areas of the State Park. So, we beached the dinghy and just walked along the dunes on Lake Michigan. We got pretty wet pushing the dinghy back off the beach, but the water is still warm.
On the ride back, we explored the Lincoln River, as far as we could go. The river led to Lincoln Lake, but it got too shallow for us.
Back on the Pere Marquette River, we went past our marina entrance to get a closer look at the S.S. Badger – which I talked about in last week’s blog. This historic steamship car ferry is the last coal-powered passenger steamship in the U.S.
We also watched the freighter, Manitowoc, unloading at the Pere Marquette Shipping Co. Thanks to AIS and the internet, I realized that this freighter would be returning to Drummond Island. When we were docked in DeTour, MI, we watched freighters on Drummond Island getting loaded at the Dolomite Quarry dock – just across the St. Marys River from us (Blog- Week 5, Part II).
Dolomite is the underlying rock of Drummond Island. It was used to build the early locks at Sault Ste. Marie and in the late 1920s it was used to construct many breakwalls in the harbors of the Great Lakes, including ones we have visited in Mackinaw City and Frankfort. Dolomite’s use is in steel making greatly expended during WWII. Today, it is still used in the steel industry, but its hardness and structural soundness, make it an ideal aggregate for construction, including asphalt and concrete pavements. It is also used in glass making, paper making and medicines, such as Epsom salts. However, more applicable to my Ohio upbringing, I recognized it as the big white mounds that I see on the farm fields in the spring and fall. Dolomite’s high magnesium and calcium carbonate makes it a soil neutralizer and it replenishes the fields with these crucial nutrients.
We ended out evening at the Mitten Bar – which serves only Michigan crafted beer, wine and spirts. We enjoyed talking with a local lady who was out for a walk and decided to come in for a beer. Like many people we have met here, she and her husband are retired and spend the winter in Florida. She laughed when we mentioned not being able to get an Uber. She said they do have 3 cab companies. Oh well, the dinghy adventure will remain a highlight of our summer.
On Tuesday, we began our day at the Red Rooster Coffee & Community. No flavored coffee, but we did enjoy the company of the owners and several local ladies. The one lady eyed the muscular young mailman who came in. She said he redefines the image of a mailman 😂. She said her grandfather was a mailman after he lost his job playing his violin for the silent movie industry, once the “talkies” took over. She was a hoot to talk with.
After the dinghy adventure of yesterday, we were ready for a chore/ relax day. I did laundry and worked on my blog and Tim played with his ham radio and did some cooking. We ended our last evening in Ludington at Jamesport Brewing Co., where Tim enjoyed two of their beers and I got a local Michigan cider.
Wednesday, September 20, 2023 – Ludington, MI to Pentwater, MI, Sung Harbor Marina
Lake Michigan had 2-4 foot waves today, but it was our day to move, so we headed out anyway. We just had a short voyage of 2 hours and 10 minutes, going 11.8 nm (13.6 miles), at an average speed of 5.5 knots (6.4 MPH). Our speed was a little slower today, in part to the waves and in part to Sung Harbor Marina asking us to come in after 1:00 PM, since the employees take lunch from noon to 1:00 PM. When we pulled into the dock at 1:10 PM, there were five employees taking our lines and guiding us in. They were the best dock hands that we have had all summer.
After getting the water and electric hooked up and eating some lunch on HOMES, we took a short walk around Pentwater. Tim had a drink at Gull Landing, before we came back to HOMES and took a nap. Even a short two-hour voyage in big waves is exhausting. We generally stand the whole time, which gives our abs a workout.
In the evening, at two picnic tables on the dock, we joined three other Looper boats – our friends on Lucky Chicklett and new friends on Last Mistake and Homeport. We were also joined by Mike, a local guy living on his boat that is sitting in the marina parking lot, and an English novelist, JT Baxter, who plans to travel the world on his sailboat, collecting experiences to make into novels. JT is somewhat of a local celebrity too, because his boat washed ashore back in July when his anchor line broke, while he was sleeping. He spent eight days stranded on a small beach south of Pentwater; however, the neighbors brought him food and did his laundry. One day, 150 people showed up to help dig him out, which didn’t work, but the amazing love shown to him helped to keep him positive. Eventually, a track hoe was used to set him free.
Thursday – Saturday, Sept. 21 – Sept. 23, 2023 – Pentwater, MI (Layover days)
Thursday began with coffee at Green Isaac’s Coffee and Tea. We got our coffee -no flavors- and walked across the street to the farmer’s market – the last one of the season in Pentwater. Unfortunately, there were no produce stands, but it is the end of September. No worries though – we did buy: a sticky bun for Tim’s breakfast; French bread; salsa and chips, from El Cardenal of Hart, MI; and, three kinds of delicious cheese from The Cheese People of Grand Rapids– Swiss, blue cheese and jalapeño jack (now shipping nationwide).
Sung Harbor Marina is on the Pentwater River, which leads to Pentwater Lake. You may have noticed that since we entered Lake Michigan, the marinas have been on rivers and lakes. As opposed to Lake Huron, where most marinas were in man-made harbors. Taking advantage of being on a beautiful small lake, we took the dinghy for a ride and admired the homes on Pentwater Lake.
We were hungry after our dinghy ride, so we made an all Michigan-produced lunch – some of our new cheeses, French bread, salsa and chips and some local summer sausage that we bought in Mackinaw City. We haven’t been in a grocery store chain all summer, except for maybe two Save A Lots on Lake Huron.
In the evening, we took a walk out to Mears State Park for a walk on the beach and then had a drink at the Antler Bar, before getting back to HOMES for our America’s Great Loop Cruisers Association (AGLCA) webinar.
This looping year is a little different, because the three locks on the Illinois River – just past Chicago- have been closed all summer.
Therefore, there will be about 265 Looper boats waiting to get through when the locks open on October 1st. Commercial traffic gets priority and there will also be non-Looper pleasure boats, so the AGLCA has been coordinating with the Army Corp of Engineers (who run the locks). Tim and I have no desire to be in the first flotillas of 16 boats locking though together. We’ll be bringing up the rear of Loopers around Oct. 21. We have a short trip home planned, so when we get back to HOMES on October 15th, we’ll make our way to Chicago. We should have a flotilla of about 7 boats. We’ll be having a Zoom meeting with our flotilla on Sunday night.
Friday, September 22nd – we began our day with a coffee and a cinnamon roll at the bakery in the Mason Jar. The baker and Tim compared carrot cake recipes. Such friendly people!
When we got back to HOMES, Mike, the local boater who we met on Wednesday night, asked if we’d like a ride to the “big” grocery store in Hart, MI – 15 minutes away. Of course we accepted the invitation. I had been wondering if there were sprawling towns with shopping centers full of chain stores, once you got away from the quaint coastal towns. However, that was not the case here! Hart emerged out of the rural landscape. After driving through the small downtown shopping district, we pulled into the small parking lot of Hansen Foods – an independently owned, family grocery store. Upon walking in, the lady at the service desk said “Hi” and “Welcome in.” There were 4 checkouts – all busy, but no long lines, and no self-checkout! The very first display was of all local products, and we bought more of the salsa and chips that we had bought at the farmer’s market. The lettuce that I got was so fresh it still had some dirt from the garden on it. They had a deli, bakery, meat department and every other thing that you’d expect at a chain store. However, as they have posted – by shopping locally you: 1) keep your dollars in the local economy; 2) help create local jobs; 3) nurture your local community; 4) help the environment; 5) invest in local ownership; and, 6) create more choice in shopping. I’d have to add one more – independent stores seem to have happier employees.
Mike told us that this quaint town of Hart – county seat of Oceana County – is also the “Asparagus Capital of the Word,” with an annual National Asparagus Festival every June since 1974.
Because of its sandy soil, Oceana County is the largest producer of asparagus in the nation, with an estimated 20 million pounds produced annually, valued at more than $23.2 million. Asparagus season in Michigan typically runs from late April – June. In 24 hours, asparagus can grow from two to 10 inches! Michigan asparagus is the best because it is hand-snapped above ground, giving it the signature tenderness and flavor. Farmhands sit in a horizontal line on a machine that looks like a grounded biplane, being propelled through the fields. They hunch over and snap stalks for eight to 10 hours a day. Mike explained that the large number of migrant workers needed has added culture to the community, including a fabulous authentic Mexican restaurant, La Fiesta, which is a staple in the community and allegedly the best Mexican restaurant in West Michigan.
Mike wouldn’t accept any money for taking us to the grocery store or for the eggs and veggies that he gave us from his son’s house.
We topped off our evening with a walk on the beach at Mears State Park. The huge, white, sandy beaches in Michigan still amaze me!
Saturday, September 23rd – No better way to spend the first day of fall than at Pentwater’s 33rd Annual Fall Festival! We again started our day at the Mason Jar for coffee and Tim got a carrot cake cupcake. The baker remembered us from yesterday and was pleased when Tim complemented her after finishing his cupcake.
The Fall Festival had more than 100 craftspeople, artists and antique dealers on the Village Green. We enjoyed looking at the displays, but didn’t buy anything. Tim did buy some Jelly Belly candy at Cosmic Candy Company on our walk back to HOMES.
In the evening, we walked back uptown to Village Cafe and Pub, where we enjoyed live music and a drink. The Jimmy Buffet songs and lights strung across the yard made for a relaxing evening.
When we got back to HOMES, Mike and JT were at the picnic table, so Tim joined them like he had every other night. Tim has learned some amazing things about these two guys. JT served in the Royal Navy and worked aboard the royal yacht. He writes mysteries about women in crises to spread awareness about domestic violence and donates the proceeds from the sale of his books to charities supporting women. He will be flying back to England for the winter, but plans to return to Pentwater in the spring to restart his journey. Mike, who owned and lost a company, house and cars twice when the economy crashed in the 2000s, will be traveling to a village in Guatemala, where he has been helping to support a school. He too plans to return to his boat in the spring.
These two guys exemplify that life is about giving – not collecting. Whenever society tries to tell me otherwise, I’ll always think of JT and Mike.
Sunday, September 24, 2023 – Pentwater, MI, Snug Harbor Marina to Muskegon, MI, Safe Harbor Great Lakes
We said a quick goodbye to Mike, before pulling away from the dock. Mike took a picture of us heading back out onto Lake Michigan. Our voyage to Muskegon took six hours, going 41 nm (47 miles), at an average speed of 6.7 knots (7.7 MPH). Tim did push HOMES up to 10 knots today just to blow out some carbon.
The coastline between Pentwater and Muskegon looked much like the sand dune cliffs of previous days. However, the water beneath us – from Pentwater to Grand Haven (which we will visit next) – is the West Michigan Underwater Preserve. The Preserve is home to 13 ships wrecks and Hamilton Reef, also known as “The Rock Pile,” which is a snake-like formation of broken cement rubble just south of the Muskegon Channel.
We came through the Muskegon Channel and crossed Muskegon Lake to Safe Harbor Great Lakes Marina. We’ll be here until Wednesday morning and plan to clean and take down the isoglass on the flybridge, in anticipation of lowering the flybridge arch for our trip under the low bridges of Chicago. Coming through the channel, we saw the USS Silversides Submarine Museum, so we may check that out, if it isn’t too far to walk.
See you next week!
Thanks for reading!